Hi guys! Just 7 weeks until I pop and I can’t wait! I can’t wait to squeeze this new little guy, and I can’t wait to not be pregnant 😉 I know lots of you relate! After sleeping in my room for the first few months, he will be sharing with his bigger brother, and I have been working on creating them a shared room. One of the things I decided to tackle for this space was his changing table. I wanted something that A) didn’t look like a changing table, and B) could double as something different down the road. So, here is what I came up with! Check out my DIY Changing Table!
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How fun is that?? I love that you can remove the topper, or never add it to begin with and you have a great side or console table, or even a cute coffee bar. Before we get started be sure to check out our How-To Video on YouTube to build this changing table. You can find it HERE or click the link below!
First step is making all your cuts. One thing I chose to do is rip the rounded edges off my 2x boards. What does this do?? It gives the 2x a straight edge appearance, which I believe makes the entire piece look more polished when finished. Sometimes doing this will affect lots of dimensions when building. In this case, it will only affect your top dimensions. If you choose not to round yours, be sure not to cut the top board until you have the bottom assembled so you can decide exactly how long you want it to be. I used my Ridgid miter saw to make all my shorter cuts and I used my Ridgid table saw to rip those edges like I mentioned.
First step in assembly is making one side of this changing table. To join these boards, I used 1.5″ pocket holes and 2.5″ pocket hole screws. I used my Kreg K5 for this. You can see our HOW TO USE A KREG JIG video here!
Your two bottom horizontal runners will have pocket holes one each side like this.Your top runner will also have them running down the length of the board, and you will use those in a later step to attach the changing table base to the top.
DIY Changing Table – Frame Assembly
Now build the frame assembly by attaching those runners to the legs. You only want to build one of the sides at this point and it should look like this…
Next, add the runners that go on each short end. These will be attached with wood glue and 1.5″ pocket hole screws. Make sure the pocket holes are facing the inside, and these will line up flush with the edge of the legs.Attach the next two legs at this point. These will also attach with wood glue and pocket hole screws through the pocket holes on the runners and into the legs.
After attaching these, add the 1×6 plank pieces. These will attach with wood glue and nails to the inside of the runners attaching the side assembly to the second set of legs. ** I made a booboo here that I didn’t get to photograph. I call for 3/4″ pocket holes at the top of each of these 6 planks. I forgot to add them and had to go back with my R3 and add them and it was a pain in the booty. Be sure to make the pocket holes and then attach the planks. I have shown that in the plans. Thanks**
Once both sides are planked, you are ready to add the shelf boards. I used 3/4″ Purebond Plywood in Birch for mine. I always have the guys at Home Depot rip it down to the right width or about an inch more, and then I make the smaller cuts on my table and miter saw at home. I added 3/4″ pocket holes around the bottom of both shelf boards. I will use these to attach the boards to the runners. I used my Kreg Foremanfor this part, but you can use any model Kreg Jig you have! The Foreman is one of my fav time savers and is basically a Kreg Jig on steroids 🙂
It might be helpful to use a mallet to get these shelves perfectly into place. I use mine a lot, and Ash and I like to think when you have to use one that it’s a good sign of a great cut 😉 I used 1.25″ pocket hole screws to attach both shelves through the bottom of the shelf and into the runners and planks. You want these shelves to line up flush with the top of the runners on both.
DIY Changing Table – Time for runners
Both shelves done… Ready to add the next runners!
Be sure to add glue in between joints before adding the runners to help hold everything in place.Also, once you have attached the runners to the legs, attach the shelf to that runner through the pocket holes on the bottom.
Now onto the side trim. This will give it that farmhouse look! Use wood glue and 1.25″ brad or finish nails to attach the trim once you have cut it to size.
The top of the changing table is made from a pine project panel. These come in different sizes at the hardware store. I cut mine to size and sanded down the edges really good.Now flip the entire table base upside down on the top and line it up on the project panel. Attach the base to the top using 1.25″ pocket hole screws through the holes on both the side planks and the long runners.
DIY Changing Table – the topper
You can stop here at this point if you plan to use this as a console or different kind of table. If you plan to make use it as a changing table, make the cuts for the topper. Those are 45 degree angles at each corner.
I added two 3/4″ pocket holes to each long board and attached the changing table topper frame to the top of the table with 1.25″ pocket hole screws. I know this will leave screw holes in the future when I do remove the topper, but I will just fill those, as I see this as the safest way to attach it. All finished!
Here is the changing table pad I bought on Amazon as well as the cover!The baskets are a perfect fit and a great find from The Container Store.
For my first two babies, I used a simple stand as a changing table, it was the exact size of the changing pad but had zero storage. I had plenty of closet space to hold all of their stuff. When baby #3 was coming along, I realized that I had to do something for storing for her stuff, since the other two filled up what storage space I had. Babies need so much stuff, diapers, wipes, special shampoo, bum stuff, clothes clothes clothes, accessories, it never ends. I decided to build her a dresser/changing table. I should have started on it earlier but didn’t know what design I wanted to make.
Earlier my neighbor had redone a few of her daughters rooms with bead board. They had the bead board go about 2/3rds up the wall, so this meant they had a lot of 1/3 sheets of bead board left. She gave me a number of the 1/3 sheets. I thought it would be fun to use up some of the bead board with this dresser. I turned the bead board to go horizontal to give the changing table a little more of a planked wood look.
Of course I was trying to cram in as many projects as possible before the baby came in October. She decided to come a week early…so I wasn’t done Oh well, it was still usable! 3 months later I am finally getting it finished.
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How to Build a 5 Drawer Dresser – Changing Table
Materials
1 1/2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood (4′ x 8′)
1/2 or 1 sheet bead board
7 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 3/4″ x 1 1/2″)
2 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 3/4″ x 2 1/2″)
2 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 19 1/4″ with 45 deg miter on one end
1 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 44 3/4″ with 45 deg miters on both ends
2 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 27″
4 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 15″
moulding cut to fit
Plywood
1 – 3/4″ x 17 3/4″ x 41 3/4″
1 – 3/4″ x 17 1/4″ x 41 1/4″
2 – 3/4″ x 16 1/4″ x 37 1/4″
4 – 3/4″ x 6″ x 37 1/4″
1 – 3/4″ x 16 1/4″ x 14 3/4″
2 – 3/4″ x 6″ x 14 3/4″
10 – 3/4″ x 6″ x 17 3/4″
2 – 3/4″ x 7 1/4″ x 16 1/4″
4 – 3/4″ x 7 1/4″ x 6″
Bead board
2 – 1/4″ x 15″ x 23 3/4″
2 – 1/4″ x 6 7/8″ x 39 5/8″
1 – 1/4″ x 6 7/8″ x 17 1/8″
2 – 1/4″ x 6 7/8″ x 9 5/8″
Cut Diagrams
Boards
3/4″ plywood
Bead board
Step 1
Use a Kreg pocket hole jig or R3 and drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of 39 3/4″ and 7″ face frame boards. Also drill 3 pocket holes in the top 39 3/4″ board to attach the top later. On 2 of the 39 3/4″ boards measure and mark over 9 3/4″ from each end. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to secure the 7″ boards between the 39 3/4″ boards as shown.
On the 1 1/2″ x 27″ boards mark 8 1/2″ and 17″ from the top. Attach a 39 3/4″ board flush with the top, at 8 1/2″, at 17″ and flush with the bottom. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to secure.
Step 2
The side panels are made similar to cabinet doors. I used my raised panel router bits to make the side panels, but you can do the same thing with a table saw or a straight router bit, minus a few curves.
Each side panel has 5 pieces:
2 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 15″ (top and bottom rails)
1 – 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ x 27″ (front edge of panel)
1 – 3/4″ x 2″ x 27″ (back edge of panel)
1 – 1/4″ x 15″ x 23 3/4″ (beadboard or plywood)
The front and back stiles (27″ vertical pieces) only need a 1/4″ wide groove cut 3/8″ deep down the center. You can do multiple passes on the table saw with the blade 3/8″ high or with a 1/4″ straight router bit on a router table.
The top and bottom rails (15″ horizontal pieces) also need a 1/4″ wide groove cut 3/8″ deep down the center. On each end of the stiles cut a groove on each corner that is 1/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep. This will leave a 3/8″ long tab on each end that will fit into the groove on the 27″ stiles.
The two side panels need to be mirror images of each other.
Dryfit the rails into the stiles to make sure the tab will snuggly fit into the groove. Place the bead board into the grooves and glue the tabs into stile grooves and clamp until the glue is set. Make sure you make the sides mirror each other, 1 1/4″ piece is the front and bead board facing out.
Once the glue has set, drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material along the front inside and a couple in the top.
Measure and mark on both the front and back stiles 8 1/2″, 17″ and 25 1/2″. Drill a couple of countersink holes in each end of 6 of the 17 1/4″ boards. Attach a 17 1/4″ board at each mark with 1 1/4″ wood screws make the screw heads flush or lower, these will be where you mount your drawer runners later.
Step 3
Attach the sides to the face frame with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in 3 sides of the bottom plywood (17 1/4″ x 41 1/4″). Attach plywood bottom to be flush with the bottoms of the face frame and sides, secure with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in both ends of the 41 1/4″ boards. Attach one flush with the top, inset 1/4″ and secure with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Inset the second 41 1/4″ board 1/4″ and attach just under the top drawer runner support. From both sides of the lower 41 1/4″ board mark 9 3/4″ from the drawer runner support board as shown. Drill pocket holes in one end of each of the 4 – 17 1/4″ drawer runner supports. Attach 2 sandwiched 17 1/4″ drawer runner supports to the bottom of the 7″ face frame boards and at the mark on the 41 1/4″ board. (You can either use pocket holes or attach from the 41 1/4″ board into the 17 1/4″ boards.)
Attach the drawer runners onto the drawer runner support boards. The front of the drawer runners will be flush with the front of the face frame.
Step 4
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material around the edges of the drawer bottoms and also a couple on each end of the drawer front and backs. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the 37 1/4″ x 6″ drawer front and back to the 37 1/4″ sides of the drawer bottom.
Attach drawer sides to the drawer bottom and front and back pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material around the edges of the drawer bottoms and also a couple on each end of the drawer front and backs. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the 14 3/4″ x 6″ drawer front and back to the 14 3/4″ sides of the drawer bottom.
Attach drawer sides to the drawer bottom and front and back pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material around the edges of the drawer bottoms and also a couple on each end of the drawer front and backs. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the 7 1/4″ x 6″ drawer front and back to the 7 1/4″ sides of the drawer bottom.
Attach drawer sides to the drawer bottom and front and back pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Attach the inner piece of the drawer runners to the drawer. I remove the inner piece, put the front of the runner flush with the drawer front and flush with the bottom of the drawer and screw the runners in place. This method always works out good for me.
Step 5
Cut all of the bead board pieces for the drawer fronts. It will look better if you keep the bead board lines the same spacing the same for each drawer front.
Cut the panel cap molding to fit around the bead board. These are the dimensions for mine to give you a ball park.
You want the corners to line up the the bead board like this:
There really isn’t anything to nail the panel cap molding to, so I glued the molding to the bead board and nailed the bead board to the drawer front.
Step 6
Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material around 3 sides of the top plywood (17 3/4″ x 41 3/4″). Attach the 19 1/4″ and 44 3/4″ trim pieces to the top plywood with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Attach the top to the dresser with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back should be flush with the dresser back and the sides centered.
If you want, add molding under the top. Cut it to fit and secure with brad nails. Attach the bun feet to the bottom of the dresser with a top plate and twist the feet on. Drill holes for drawer knobs and pulls.
Step 7
Fill in any cracks or blemishes with wood filler and allow to dry. If I’m going to paint plywood edges I like to skim coat the edges with wood filler or spackle to make it smooth.
Sand the dresser smooth. Start with 80 grit sandpaper and finish with 120-180 grit sandpaper in the direction of the wood grain.
I painted the dresser with a pretty chalk based paint Amy Howard at Home One Step Paint – Barefoot in the Park. The one step paint means that you don’t have to prime, but you may need a second coat. I brushed the paint on with a chip brush and it went on the bare wood nice and smooth. The bead board definitely needed two thin coats. 1 quart of paint did two thin coats on the outside of the dresser and 1 thin coat on the drawers, without a drop to spare.
After the one step paint you may want to use waxes to give the paint a protective finish. I plan on trying a new world Toscana finish, so mine isn’t waxed in the pictures.
I love how the changing table turned out. It’s perfect for storing all of her stuff…and changing diapers which I do a lot of!
Ashley is the owner of Southern Farmhouse Designs, an interior decorating company based out of Houston, Texas. She is the mom of two precious kiddos, the wife of Matt & a lover of Jesus, coffee & design. Southern Farmhouse Designs believes that God designed the home to be a place of gathering, conversations, messes, laughter & love.
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I have a confession to make. I have DIY ADD. Yes, I start (and sometimes finish) tons of projects but have never actually completely finished a room in my home. So I've decided it's time to actually stick to one room long enough to finish it. It might be hard, and I might stray a little to do small crafty projects, but I WILL get a room renovated!! So to make it easy on myself I've decided to start small, by finishing my son's bathroom. This bathroom, which is also used as the guest bath, is thankfully already off to a good start. About half done I'd say. In fact I did a post, Owl-trageously Cute Kids Bathroom, on my progress thus far with decorating and DIY owl artwork.
I eagerly jumped right in with the biggest eyesore, the construction grade vanity. It's orangey, cheap (is it even real wood?) boringness that is so common in new build houses across the country is enough to make you want to scream and rip it out in a mad frenzy and start fresh. Sadly we don't have the cash to just go out and buy a new, fancy, I have to have it in my bathroom right now, vanity. Plus there was nothing wrong with the vanity (besides being hideous) so I had to figure out a way to update and upgrade this monster on a tight budget and in true DIY fashion.
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So I did the next best thing to breathe new life into this vanity, I painted it. Teal.
I'm sure you're thinking: teal, for a vanity?! Yep, I went for it. I knew it would be a color that when people saw it they would either love or hate. Anyone who knows me knows I'm not scared of bold color choices. It is only paint after all. It can always be repainted.
I chose a dark teal to compliment the darker teal tones in the owl decor. I color matched the rug and bought a pint of paint to make some home made chalk paint. Then while I was strolling through Walmart's craft aisle soon after that I saw an entire line of Waverly chalk paint. They were all gorgeous colors that I could see working on lots of different kinds of furniture. They were only $5 a piece and they had a teal color (agave) that looked like an exact match to the teal I was going to use.
I bought it (along with several other colors...don't judge me) figuring if it wasn't the right teal I'd use it on something else and at only $5 I could justify finding out what "real" chalk paint was all about. Low and behold it was the same tone just a bit darker than the color I picked out! I stashed my teal pint to use on something else. I couldn't believe my luck ;).
I took the doors and drawer fronts off the vanity and wiped them clean. That's all the prep work I did. I painted 2 coats of paint on everything. I will say the store bought chalk paint is far superior to my home made paint. It goes on super smooth and a little seems to go a long way. I didn't even use the whole 8 oz container on the vanity. I will definitely continue to use Waverly chalk paint unless I want a custom color.
Not to be redundant with the glazing furniture but I wanted that look for this cabinet. I really like the darker, distinct look glaze gives wood furniture, highlighting lines and curves giving depth where there might not have been if it was a flat color. I used the glaze from my Rustoleum cabinet restorations kit and damp cheesecloth to get my desired look. Here's some pictures of the glazing process.
I then clear coated with the top coat I had leftover from my Rustoleum cabinet transformation kit. It has worn extremely well on my kitchen cabinets so I knew it would be perfect for the vanity.
I wanted an oil rubbed faucet to replace the chrome builders grade faucet so that it would match with the towel bars and toilet paper holder. I looked to my best shopping buddy, eBay and found a steal of a deal for a brand new oil rubbed faucet at $30.22.
I also decided to put oil rubbed pulls and knobs on the cabinet to give it a more finished, expensive look. I really like the oil rubbed pulls and knobs on my kitchen cabinets so I decided to just use the same ones. I bought three pulls and two knobs off of eBay also for a total of $13.15.
I wanted to add a little something to give the boxy vanity some interest and maybe a some elegance so I bought some bun feet for $6 a piece at Lowes and painted them to match.
To recap I painted and glazed the vanity, Cory, with Jackson's help ;), replaced the chrome faucet with a new oil rubbed faucet, I screwed knobs and pulls into the doors and drawers, and I added bun feet by simply using the palm of my hand to hit/wedge them under the lip of the base to fit snugly and securely in place. Here's a breakdown in the cost for this project:
oil rubbed faucet- $30.22
Agave chalk paint- $5.00
3 pulls and 2 knobs- $13.15
2 bun feet- $12
Total= $60.37
So for just over $60 I transformed my ugly, boring builders grade vanity into something that I really love!
To see the complete tutorial along with tons more pictures of the process and after shots check out my blog :)
